My favourite short hike from Kotor Old Town or "An easier prettier quieter route to Sveti Ivan Fortress"

Instead of hoiking up all those steps to Sveti Ivan (St John) Fort, particularly on those blisteringly hot Balkan summer mornings (unless you start at 6am, which is entirely possible), take the easy path up to the fortress.

Not only is this a much easier ascent, it is also quiet and if you get the right time of day, partially shaded.  I will add a map to this post at some point, but for now just listen and imagine.  Or get one of those paper maps out – remember those? – and follow.

This follows the old Austro-Hungarian track which zig zags behind Kotor Old Town, into the mountains, over Lovcen and all the way to the old royal capital, Cetinje.  So don’t miss the turn off to the fortress!

1)      Head out of the North Gate of Kotor Old Town (by Bastion Restaurant/Cat Square), cross over the bridges and turn right along the road until it turns to the left and you reach what looks like an old power plant. The path continues along the river, take this. It soon becomes pretty despite the remaining industrial buildings. You will see the narrow gorge of the Skrda River (that purports to have cut the entire Boka Kotorska many moons ago).  Cross that little bridge and continue on the stony path upwards.  This is the only bit of the walk where you might huff and puff for a few minutes and wonder if it is worth it.  It is.

2)      Continue up the zig zags as each turn provides better and better views into the gorge below and down the Boka, whilst the precipitous city walls of Kotor tower above you as you ascend.  There are plenty of wild flowers, butterflies and the occasional goat too. If you are really lucky, you will meet one of the friendly family who live in a remote farmhouse, an hour’s hike up the trail on their trip to town!

3)      When you reach the old disused stone house on your right, you will see there is a path straight on from the zig zag track.  Take this path and within a few minutes you will arrive at the ruined village of Spiglari and its wonderful little 15^th century church. I found a sheep’s carcus hanging ominously from a hook on the doorway there, one desolate winter’s afternoon.  Spooky.

4)      A huge natural stone quary provides a great arena for a picnic stop and the noise of the bay disappears completely.  Above you looms St Ivan’s fortress, built onto a high rocky outcrop and it is from here that it becomes clear why Kotor’s unique walls, which rise almost organically from the steep mountainside, were built to take advantage of this landscape

5)      As you look to the right of the fortress from the church, you can see a footpath winding towards an arch-shaped “window” in the wall.  This is your path and you climb through the arch to find yourself back in the real world and on the main steps/path to Sveti Ivans. Make the final push – 5 minutes – to the top.

6)      Return via the steps – much easier going down than up but take care – then reward yourself with a cold beer or gelato in one of Kotor’s pretty squares.

NOTE: Take plenty of water and make your life easier by wearing decent footwear. You can do it in walking sandals or trainers but not flip flops or stilettos (I have seen someone attempt this!).