Top 10 Things to do in Montenegro and beyond

Google will give you pages of Top 10 Things to do in Montenegro and I've just been reading some of them.  Not to give me ideas; I don't need any - but I was just curious. It is a fairly unimaginative array written by journalists, some of whom probably haven't even been here and many produced verbatim from Porto Montenegro's press releases.  And many of which bear little relation to the Montenegro I know (if anyone can show me a "stunningly beautiful beach", please email me right away - don't get me wrong, much of Montenegro truly is stunningly beautiful, but the beaches are not).

However, when I came to think of my top 10, there was quite a bit of cross-over with what has already been written so maybe that proves that I am unimaginative too!  Or there is no point trying to be clever; there are some unmissables - and I include the first 5 as exactly that.

So, here goes, in no particular order other than the first five, I think, are the must dos:

1) Lunch at a waterside restaurant in historical Perast and take a local boat over to visit Our Lady of the Rock island

An obvious choice but a goodie. There is enough to do in Perast to fill a day's visit - museums, admiring the architecture, a lazy waterfront lunch, take a small local boat over to the islands and finish up with a swim in some of the cleanest water in the bay.

Plus Perast is almost guaranteed a hot summer's afternoon breeze so great place to be on the hottest of days.

2) Enjoy cheap, good quality chilled beer (or a gelato) in Kotor's atmospheric squares

There are not many places in Europe where you can relax at a cafe in a UNESCO-protected medieval square, enjoying a delicious, chilled local beer for less than €2.  If you know of one, please tell me!

3) Road trip up the serpentine road to Lovcen National Park and beyond

One of Europe's most exciting road trips and you are certainly rewarded with one of the best views. A full description and map to follow in another post.

4) Experience the Boka Kotorska (Kotor Bay) by boat

No visit to Montenegro is complete without a boat trip around the Boka Kotorska.  You can only truly appreciate its magnificence from the water. I know we are biased (we live on the water), but it is a must do - it is in all the Top 10s!  See www.montenegro4sail.com for affordable, unique day trips on a 44 foot sailing yacht, recommended by Lonely Planet, Bradt Guide and Trip Advisor as the No.1 Thing to do in Kotor.

5) Escape the crowds, walk in history's footsteps and take the alternative route to Sv Ivan's Fortress, Kotor

Follow the zig-zag Austro-Hungarian track from the back of Kotor Old Town to the ruined village of Spigliari and climb through the window of Sveti Ivan fortress for a more adventurous and crowd-free approach to Kotor's Sveti Ivan Fortress.  For more details see my post to the right.

6) Sunset is a spectator sport in this area

Watch the dramatic sunset (whatever the weather) from one of many good vantage points.  It is particularly special from the water, with a G&T in hand!  There will be a post to follow with my favourite spots for sunset, afloat (we offer sunset sailing trips) and on land.

7) Visit 18th Century Mamula fortress island before they turn it into a casino!

The entrance to the huge body of enclosed water that makes up the Boka Kotorska has been protected for many centuries by fortifications which span the bay, from Mirista, to Mamula Island to Prevlaka peninsula.  Mamula has been left to the seabirds, black rabbits and huge aloes which are enveloping this unique piece of natural and social history. It is free (it is simply just there) to visit. Daily tripper boats run from Zanjice and Herceg Novi and www.montenegro4sail.com visit this on the Adventure and Coastal Expedition.

8) Get away from the crowds with a spectacular walk on an Austro-Hungarian mountain track 

There are many to choose from but as a starting point I would recommend Vrmac ridge which provides wonderful views of both Kotor and Tivat bays and is shaded in some parts so good for summer hiking - and only 10 minutes drive from Kotor. More walks in following posts.

9) Kayak, hike or simply soak up the vastness at Lake Skadar

Ah, Lake Skadar. Quite unlike anywhere you will have ever been. In winter it is 200 square miles, in summer it drops to around 140 square miles, this huge body of shallow water is shared between Montenegro and Albania.  Giant lillypads, soaring distant mountain ranges, rugged landscapes, traditional villages and utter silence.  Not to be missed.  These folk offer adventure holidays at Lake Skadar: www.undiscoveredmontenegro.com

10) Can I fit Durmitor National Park, Biogradska Gora National Park and Prokletje National Park into one entry?

It certainly doesn't do them justice and you could spend an entire holiday in each.  Durmitor and Prokletje's soaring jagged peaks provide solitary hiking in magnificent landscapes and a visit to Biogradska will show you to a rare thing: one of Europe's remaining virgin forests.  Particularly stunning in Spring and Autumn.

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My favourite short hike from Kotor Old Town or "An easier prettier quieter route to Sveti Ivan Fortress"

Instead of hoiking up all those steps to Sveti Ivan (St John) Fort, particularly on those blisteringly hot Balkan summer mornings (unless you start at 6am, which is entirely possible), take the easy path up to the fortress.

Not only is this a much easier ascent, it is also quiet and if you get the right time of day, partially shaded.  I will add a map to this post at some point, but for now just listen and imagine.  Or get one of those paper maps out – remember those? – and follow.

This follows the old Austro-Hungarian track which zig zags behind Kotor Old Town, into the mountains, over Lovcen and all the way to the old royal capital, Cetinje.  So don’t miss the turn off to the fortress!

1)      Head out of the North Gate of Kotor Old Town (by Bastion Restaurant/Cat Square), cross over the bridges and turn right along the road until it turns to the left and you reach what looks like an old power plant. The path continues along the river, take this. It soon becomes pretty despite the remaining industrial buildings. You will see the narrow gorge of the Skrda River (that purports to have cut the entire Boka Kotorska many moons ago).  Cross that little bridge and continue on the stony path upwards.  This is the only bit of the walk where you might huff and puff for a few minutes and wonder if it is worth it.  It is.

2)      Continue up the zig zags as each turn provides better and better views into the gorge below and down the Boka, whilst the precipitous city walls of Kotor tower above you as you ascend.  There are plenty of wild flowers, butterflies and the occasional goat too. If you are really lucky, you will meet one of the friendly family who live in a remote farmhouse, an hour’s hike up the trail on their trip to town!

3)      When you reach the old disused stone house on your right, you will see there is a path straight on from the zig zag track.  Take this path and within a few minutes you will arrive at the ruined village of Spiglari and its wonderful little 15^th century church. I found a sheep’s carcus hanging ominously from a hook on the doorway there, one desolate winter’s afternoon.  Spooky.

4)      A huge natural stone quary provides a great arena for a picnic stop and the noise of the bay disappears completely.  Above you looms St Ivan’s fortress, built onto a high rocky outcrop and it is from here that it becomes clear why Kotor’s unique walls, which rise almost organically from the steep mountainside, were built to take advantage of this landscape

5)      As you look to the right of the fortress from the church, you can see a footpath winding towards an arch-shaped “window” in the wall.  This is your path and you climb through the arch to find yourself back in the real world and on the main steps/path to Sveti Ivans. Make the final push – 5 minutes – to the top.

6)      Return via the steps – much easier going down than up but take care – then reward yourself with a cold beer or gelato in one of Kotor’s pretty squares.

NOTE: Take plenty of water and make your life easier by wearing decent footwear. You can do it in walking sandals or trainers but not flip flops or stilettos (I have seen someone attempt this!).